Driving San Pedro Sula to La Ceiba, Ferry to Utila, Boatride to Jewel Caye, and Carnival in Utila – 20220723

Woke up at 0430 with a loooong day ahead of me. I got started riding at 5am to try to make the 9am ferry in La Ceiba to cross over to Utila to meet up with the motorcycle guys I met in Guatemala that invited me to join them there. It was pretty awful planning but I made it to the hotel right around 830, waited a couple of minutes and got a call from Mike, one of the motorcycle guys.

I thought I was meeting them at the hotel but they were already at the ferry so I was stressed. I packed my stuff, left it at the hotel for 60 lempiras per day and got going. I walked out of the hotel at 0852 and into a taxi. The driver said we wouldn’t make it but I said let’s give it a shot.

We arrived and I could still see the ferry there. For once the lateness of Latin America saved my ass. They rushed me in, bought me a ticket for 750 HNL and pushed me through the door onto the ferry at 910.

By sheer luck I made it. I often let the universe decide. If it had already left I would have gone to the jungle on my own and done some kayaking instead.

https://utilaferry.com/schedule/ – This is the ferry schedule if anyone needs it. It goes between La Ceiba, Utila, and Roatan. It’s a huge boat but when the seas get choppy it can be incredibly sickening. They literally have people to go around handing out puke bags.

Anyways, I hung out with the biker guys on the boat and met the Vice President of Utila tourism on the way who told us there would be a celebration in Utila later that day. It was basically Utila’s carnival.

After 45 mins we were in Utila. Once we got to Utila we were met by an old dude named Herman who drove us in his boat to an island near Utila called Jewel Cay where we would be staying for the night. On the way he was telling us about the local culture. Interestingly there are white people that are now “native” to the area that speak a veeeeeery interesting form of English. Usually I can’t quite understand them but I can make out some English words. He told us they were endearingly called, “caracols,” which means snails.

Since the VP of tourism had told us about the carnival that would be happening in Utila that day we decided to head into town to check it out realizing that we would have to head home before dark, as the boat skipper made us aware there was no possible way he could drive us back at night. So we got into town around 1pm or so planning to head back around 530pm or so.

The ride there was horribly bumpy ride and due to a growing storm we got sprayed and soaked all the way there. It was kind of fun at first but then got exhausting.


Once we got into town we walked around and there was almost nothing going on. But we walked around to explore Utila and saw people starting to gather outside bit by bit. It was trippy seeing how much had been built there since the last time I had been there about 4 or 5 years ago. A lot of new buildings had been built in that time.

The parade started around 4pm and we watched the parade and then walked around with the people partying at the back of the parade collecting beads that people were throwing out. We didn’t have much time so we started heading back and took a nice bumpy ride back to the Caye where we were staying. Exhausting day. Tomorrow I will snorkel!

Border Crossing – Guatemala to Honduras – 20220722

Today I woke up at Boatique, got a massage that was pretty damn good and took the boat to the moto at around 11. I finally got going around 1130 for the border. I was a little stressed out as I always am on border days.

After an hour I saw huge ominous clouds so stopped to get something to eat. This was the first time I ever preemptively stopped and it started pouring as soon as I stopped. I sat and waited for about an hour for it to quiet down. It was the loudest rain I have ever heard. I sat under the metal roof and it was so loud it was impossible to hear the workers talk.

When the rain finally cooled down I got going but still got soaked. I got near the border and saw a never-ending line of trucks and started to get a little worried. I just drove straight by them and kept driving. I just kept crossing stuff and eventually ended up at the border. I guess I had already crossed the border without realizing it because I was finally stopped and a guy asked for the document and sent me back when he realized I didn’t have it. I went back and went to the aduanas. First to the Guatemala side where the guy was pretty helpful. He wanted the Guatemala moto document, license, passport, Guatemala sticker thing, registration, and title.

He walked me out to the bike, read the VIN and I was sent to wait.

Apparently I went to the wrong spot.

The right order is to go to the covid tent and get this little temperature slip, then go to the “centro de control” where you will check out of a window that says Guatemala and then check into a window in the same little area that says Honduras. All you need is your passport and you have to have completed the 2 forms online prior. AND they need to be done a week ahead of time. Although other riders said they filled it out the day before.

Then go to the aduanas and hand them all the stuffs. It was still a process of waiting on the Guatemalan aduana first and then the Honduran. The Guatemalan side wanted all those things I mentioned before and then they gave me a copy of the entry permit they had previously given me.

The Honduran side wanted passport, title, registration, and driving license. They just wanted 1 copy of those 4 things. The cost total was 783 lempiras and I got a pretty okay deal exchanging quetzales from a guy near the photocopy place. Of course the Honduran agent “didn’t have change,” so he made off with my extra fiddy cent.

I was super happy to get going and was hooting and hollering after finally passing the huge line of trucks on the other side. Honduras is actually pretty damn nice. Things looked nicer than in Guatemala. The road is so much better and the whole place looks better put together.

I realized pretty quick that there was no way that I would make it to La Ceiba so I stopped in SPS where I will spent the night planning to leave at 5am in the morning for La Ceiba. I’m hoping to make the 9am ferry with the buddies I met before in Guatemala.

“If I Never Need to See Livingston, Guatemala Again for the Rest of my Life I Will be a Happy Man” – 20220721

I woke up around 7 am and headed out to the common area of Boatique. I drank some coffee and worried about my stomach because I was planning on going on a boat tour up Rio Dulce to Livingston and the boat ride would be around 2 hours each way. And my stomach is ALWAYS jacked up in Guatemala. Really the only place in the world I have this issue. I have come to think that it is the coleslaw they serve with almost every meal here. Usually it is the only thing that isn’t cooked and they presumably keep it in unrefrigerated containers for long periods of time. Who knows.

I ordered breakfast with a couple other people from the hostel and we ate together and I packed up my things because I wasn’t sure if I was going to stay another night or not. I left them at the front and the boat came to take us up to Livingston. First it went down to the Castillo de San Felipe de Lara which was a cool view from the water even though I had already explored the Castillo.

Then we picked up a ton of locals from the dock. The boat was jam packed with people and a bunch of kids that appeared to have a pretty awful cases of chicken pox. One boy was crying and covered in red bumps. I felt pretty awful for the kid. He didn’t stop crying the whole trip.

We started boating up the river and just made a couple little stop offs. The first one was some pretty nice looking lily pads and then we headed to this hot spring area. It was incredibly underwhelming. The water was pretty cold and it was just in part of the lake.

Gorgeous spot

Then we headed the rest of the way to Livingston. My first impression was pretty awful and my 2nd impression was worse. We were immediately swarmed by people trying to sell us boats to other places, especially to Belize. It brought me back to the incredibly pushy in-your-face Belizian culture and made me reflect on the fact there was a reason I chose not to drive through Belize this time around.

We pushed through the crowd and walked down the street. There’s really nothing nice to say about Livingston. The little city is falling apart from the ground up. We walked to the beach and took the route along the beach all the way to Playa Blanca. The entire hour of hiking along the beach was walking over plastic, trash and smelly streams flowing into the ocean. It appears as if not a single person in Livingston takes pride in their city.

Trash absolutely everywhere

Right at playa blanca there was a little less trash and we found a nice pier to sit and chill for the whole 30 minutes we had before heading back.

Nice spot to chill

It would have been nice to do the Siete Altares hike but we did not have time. It would have been about another 30 minutes walking down the beach to get to the entrance. Presumably, you could take a boat from where we landed in Livingston straight to Siete Altares.

We hiked back on the main road which was blisteringly hot and tuk tuks sped past us leaving us inches and honking at us each time.

If I never have to see Livingston, Guatemala again for the rest of my life I will be a happy man.

We grabbed some mediocre nachos and a bottle of coke on the way back to regain some energy and jumped on the boat back to Boatique.

It only took about an hour to get back to Boatique where I flew the drone a little, ate some dinner, and relaxed.

Rio Dulce

I really love this hotel. It’s everything I would want out of a future home except it’s a little secluded. It is built on a swamp and only accessible by boat. But the perfect place to chill for 2-3 nights and not have to think about anything else.