Leaving Oaxaca, Rainy Season Begins – 20220623

After dragging my feet for a long time and staying in Oaxaca way longer than I had initially intended I finally started the drive out of Oaxaca Towards Chiapas, the last state in Mexico that I would visit on my tour of Latin America. My last night in Oaxaca I took my first ever dance class to try to learn a little bit of salsa and I actually really had a good time at the class. The salsa part went way over my head but the bachata class was pretty easy and I felt like I was pretty good at it, at least for a gringo.

But in the morning I put my riding boots on and headed South! It was time to cross one more state and then cross the border. The second I started riding it started sprinkling and I rode in and out of rain ever since. Rainy season for me started in 1 day. I knew it was coming but I still hate it. I don’t have good rain gear and I’m worried about my stuff which is packed in very questionably waterproof bags. When it rains I shove my phone in a plastic bag and let every inch of my body get soaked and I squint as hard as I can as the baseball sized drops smack my eyeballs.

Once the rain started to pick up hard in a matter of minutes I could feel the cold bite me all the way to the bone. I stopped on the side of the road at some small restaurant shack where they brought me out a big cup of chocolate and it felt as if I was pouring my own soul back into my body.

And Just Like That, Rainy Season Began

I finished the day in a tiny village called Sancristobal(Not San Cristobal de Las Casas). I rolled into town and everyone was staring at me. It is not a place foreigners ever go.

I rolled up to this building and asked a guy outside if it was a place I could stay and he said yes. It was like a little convention center. I asked him how much and he said 300 pesos. That’s about as cheap as it gets for your own place here and it ended up being perfect. Because of all the rain I was able to work on the motorcycle under the roof of the place. I installed the USB port so I can charge my phone and put in a new air filter, but it is much different than the old one, I hope it works out alright. It’s more like a big sponge instead of the harder old one, but it should work..

Getting some much needed work done on Donnkey

I went to go eat something and it cost me 100 pesos for a big plate of beef with a fresh coconut. It was quite a nice meal and then I went back to my room to edit some old videos. I’m still so behind on editing Mexico videos. Oh well.

Alebrije Art Around Oaxaca – 20220622

Today I jumped on the moto to head down to San Martin Tilcajete. I REALLY love the albrije art that they make around Oaxaca and San Martin is known as the birthplace with the best shops. My plan was to drive the 40 mins south to walk around the various shops and look at the art.

Once I arrived I walked around as the absolute only tourist there. Very few shops had opened up even by 11am. Clearly the only tourists that go there go there with van groups and I’m assuming it always happens at a predetermined time. Because I just king of bumbled around letting myself into shops as the artists stared up at me from their work

My favorite shop was a place called Taller David Hernandez. They showed me the process of how they made them and they were so well done. After seeing it none of the other places looked nearly as good. At the taller they were working on an octopus for some lady in San Francisco and it was absolutely amazing. He said the piece would cost about $10,000 which seemed like not a terrible price for how much work gets put into it. You can see the work in progress. The dark blue is just the primer and the stripe on one of the tentacles is the more intricate pattern that will eventually cover the entire octopus.

Octopus in Progress

The process consists of them getting the wood which is a specific tree, cutting it into shape of an animal, letting it dry for 10 months, and filling the cracks that form with chips of wood. They then soak it in gasoline and then prime it and begin painting. Watching the girls do the painting was amazing. I don’t know how its possible that they painted so finely. It really made me want to do some drawing again.

When I got back I headed to the market to get some overdue things done. I bought an extra pair of pants as my other ones ripped this morning cleeeeear down the crotch, and I hired a guy to change out my phone battery for 100 pesos. He did a great job and I went to eat some lunch and some mangos from my favorite mango lady while he did it.  The “Manila” mangos here are sooo good especially with the spicy salt that mango lady puts on it.

Then I rested for a bit at the hostel a little before heading out of Oaxaca for the warmer and more humid air of Chiapas.

Free Walking Tour Around Oaxaca and Lucha Libre! – 20220621

Today I woke up, ate breakfast at the hostel and then went on a free walking tour. The tour took us all around the city looking at the old cathedrals, churches, other old buildings, and the market.

Of all the places I went and would go in Mexico, Oaxaca would be by and far my favorite little old city. Unlike most of the cities in Mexico I can honestly say it is nice. The colors are brilliant, the streets clean, the weather a little bit cooler, and the people generally nicer and calmer.

Just one of the gorgeous buildings in Oaxaca

It’s important to note that absolutely every day of the year the people of Oaxaca gather somewhere in the city to have some kind of celebration. They will all tell you, “Oh Senor! You are so lucky to have arrived just in time for _____ celebration.” It is a lie and a sham. You are not lucky, there is one every day. I saw 2 enormous celebrations and lots of weddings that would parade down the streets during my time in Oaxaca. When do the people of Oaxaca work? Good question.

For some reason in Oaxacan weddings they parade creepy paper mache dolls of the bride and groom to be. Let me repeat it is incredibly creepy.
You lost yer shoe senorita

On the tour we also tried some of the foods and I saw this sign advertising a Lucha Libre advertisement that I immediately realized that the movie “Nacho Libre,” was actually based on fact(I would later rewatch Nacho Libre to realize the entire movie was actually shot in Oaxaca.) Upon seeing the ad I knew I had to go and see it for myself.

Lucha Libre!

So after the walking tour I messaged my friend Maria who had helped watch my motorcycle while I went to work for a month. I begged her to not make me go to something so chaotic alone and to my surprise she agreed to go. I figured it would be something pretty cheesy and awful to have to go to for someone who lived there.

I don’t know what I was expecting from the lucha libre, but whatever I was expecting, it was nothing like that. Upon arriving on the moto I was certain I had put the address in wrong because it was just a block of houses. But upon seeing a cart with a bunch of wrestling masks for sale I figured I actually was in the right spot. Maria showed up and we walked through a sketchy door, paid 200 pesos per person and walked straight into someone’s backyard strewn with trashy chairs and a big wrestling square in the middle.

So we walked in, sat down, ordered 2 coronas, and people watched as people started to file in and fill the seats.

Eventually an announcer started talking in Spanish and 2 old fat dudes just kind of rolled in and started fighting on the stage. The first few matches were awful. It was incredibly strange. Dudes with huge beer bellies just kind of half-assed smacking each other.

Pepe whipping some other dude

But as the night went on the fights got much more dramatic and the moves much more impressive. I actually really got into it and as the Mexican locals shouted, “DURO!, DURO!” I was yelling “DURO!” as well.

They seemed to have no problem flipping off the stage a clear 8 feet onto a group of other wrestlers.

In the last match of 7 or so fighters it was just nonstop chaos. We kept having to jump up out of the chairs as one of them would throw another across the chairs and then start smashing him with the chairs. Another fighter smashed an entire crate of glass bottles over another’s head, many of the bottles breaking.

Eventually they somehow decided that “El Zombie,” lost the match and as he was not a fighter wearing a mask he had to cut his hair. So they shaved his head in front of the crowd. It was a little lame of an ending, but people began to file out and I headed home for some much needed rest.

Maria and I posing with one of the stellar fighters