Tag: Bikepacking

Huehuetenango to Quetzaltenango – 20220702

Today was supposed to be a short easy ride from Huehue to Quetzaltenango. Just 2 hours and I would be done. But when I was just 30 minutes out it started to pour and due to the altitude I could feel the cold creep into my torso and I soon lost feeling in my hands and then entire arms. Luckily there was a comedor just on the side of the road that I could stop at.

Due to the plastic being broken on my helmet in Mexico, when it rains I simply cannot see anything. the water splashing my sunglasses makes it impossible to see. And if I take the sunglasses off the water smacks me right in the eyeball. In case you’ve never experienced this, it feels an awful lot like getting hit in the balls but in your eyeball. And in case you don’t have balls, I don’t know how to describe it, but it’s unpleasant.

I warmed up at the comedor with hot coffee and the rain mostly stopped after and hour and I continued the last 30 minutes to a hotel called Kasa Kamelot Las Rosas. It’s not really my thing but it’s pretty comfy and was like $19. The bed is the most comfortable I’ve had in a long while to be honest. After a hearty nap I headed into town to explore a little bit.

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Of course I get Mexican tacos my first night in Gua

Huehuetenango

All hail churro lady

Quetzaltenango is kinda nice. Same old latino layout of churches and plazas everywhere. And a lot of streetfood all over the place. Plantains and churros and all kinds of tacos. Tomorrow I will head down to Lake Atitlan!

Tonina Ruins, More Rebel Roadbloacks, and a Large Step Towards Guatemala – 20220630

Today I woke up a little late after a rough time trying to sleep. I slurped down some delicious coffee from the place I am staying, Casita Tonina, and hopped on Donkey over to the ruins.

My new favorite ruins

I was literally the only one there. Since I was on a motorcycle I arrived before all of the parades of tourists. I also think no one was going due to the mafia blockade between San Cristobal and Tonina.

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We both feel some type away about human sacrifices

Human sacrifices

Totally alone

I was literally the only tourist there for the entire hour I walked up and down the steps. By far my favorite experience exploring ruins, way cooler than the way more expensive and touristy spots in Guatemala.

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Tonina Ruins

Tonina Ruins

It started getting a little hot when I headed back and I started packing my things as the family as the Casita made me some huevos rancheros. The dinner was 120 pesos and breakfast 50. Both were amazing. I hopped on the moto around 11 and fired away certain I would have to deal with more roadblocks and BS today.

Man I got lucky. As I started riding and got about 45 minutes out I saw some big convoys of military trucks. I thought that was a good sign as the route was only 2.5 hours so I figured it was clear if they were heading through. But as I passed them and went around a curve I saw people with guns putting big logs again in the road. One dude was waving me over. I briefly pretended to go towards him and then I thought, “no f-ing way,” and gassed up and shot between the logs at full Donkey speed. I kept the gas in and after 10 minutes of riding Donkey hard started to ease up a bit.

I was pretty sure there would be a blockade ahead and I would be stuck between two blockades and shook with nervous excitement as the pavement whipped by. There were lots of signs saying it was a “rebel area” and I saw one other spot that was partially blocked off. I regret not stopping and taking a photo of the signs but the nervous excitement kept me a slave to the throttle.

When I drove through one of the villages there was a truck full of women with orange handkerchiefs in their hair and cars with loudspeakers that were going off at full volume. Immediately as I went by I heard the unmistakable sound of a gunshot. This was the first time in my life where I sat there and analyzed if something just hit me. I looked down at my body to see if anything was leaking red. I don’t know what was going on, but I saw all the locals peeking their heads out of their stores to fix their eyes on anything that might be happening in the street. I’m sure they are tired of this rebel BS. They seem to stand for nothing but anarchy.

I set my eyes forward and let Donkey scream at full volume as I shot through the little rebel villages.

I gassed all day and finally made it to Comitan where I took a much needed nap and my nap dreams of sugarplums quickly turned into a full night dream of sugarplums. Tomorrow I will cross the border to Guatemala!

Donkey always rearing to go

Ride from Palenque to Tonina – 20220629

Woke up around 830 and read my book outside the cabana for a little bit. I lazed around and finally started packing around 10 for 11 checkout. I got a message from the place I was going that the roads were all blocked going into Ocosingo. *sigh

Hard *sigh

So I went to the owner ladies at jungle palace and asked if they knew anything about it. They called someone and said the way was clear but I had no idea who to believe. I figured I’d give it a shot so I jumped on the motorcycle and started riding. The roads are a pain here as there is a lot of construction and they will just block things off for large periods of time. Like 30+ minutes in the middle of the day.

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Drone shot

View from the farmstay

My plan if I couldn’t get through was to head very begrudgingly to the Cancun area and drive down through Belize. I am desperately trying to avoid Belize. While the islands and water are the most gorgeous I have seen anywhere the Caribbean the spliff chain-smoking vibe was one I was trying to avoid on this trip.

Very happily, I made it all the way to Tonina and had the nicest day ever. I stayed at the prettiest little farmstay, run by a family that sell cows and rooms in their house. Casita Tonina. I caught up on some stuff on my computer and did a lot of reading. It was super relaxing and the universe gave me exactly what I needed that day.