Loop around Esteli, Waterfalls, and a Bad Bike Drop – 20220804

First day in Esteli. Woke up, told the hotel guy I’d stay another night and shot out of town around 10. My first destination was El Salto de Estanzuela. It cost 25 córdoba($.50) and I had to drive through someone’s house as the road was under construction at the front.

The road was a little rough but short. It’s really just a semi-nice waterfall with a nice little swimming hole and trash littered everywhere. I met a nice family from El Salvador who had just caught a river crab and were super excited about it.

I then tried to drive to “mirador cerro apaguijil” but stopped at a place right next to it as it seemed a little nicer. There was no one there but a bunch of cabins everywhere and a family just eating at a picnic bench. So I parked the bike and started hiking. There was some trail there that took me about 45 minutes. It was supposed to see some cave but I didn’t see any.

I then continued on the road towards Alboroto thinking it would be a nice circuit around the area. It was an absolutely gorgeous ride but extremely exhausting. Huge rocks everywhere too. I came very close many times to sliding out.

I stopped once to take a photo of the bike in the road and when I went to pee I heard the old terrible smack sound and the engine stop.

Because I had left the bike on it vibrated forward and the kickstand popped up. The engine quit pretty quick and I tried to lift it. It was right next to a steep and sandy drop-off and when I yanked the bike with all my weight my left foot broke through the road and swung down below. Then I became very, very afraid that the bike would fall down. But I could not lift it from the other side and I watched as fuel leaked out while I was more than an hour ride from any kind of civilization. So I held the brake as hard as I could and squatted up as I felt more earth moving under my boot.

I shoved my foot under the bike and continued. I came very very close to falling down the ravine with the bike. I was sweating and nervous when I finally got the bike up. I assessed the damage. The choke switch was broken off. Part of the clutch handle broke off and there was a pool of gas on the ground and running down my leg. I started her up and she started just fine with a little throttle. I continued on with sweaty fog on my sunglasses cursing myself for taking the stupid photo.

On the ride out I felt incredibly mortal. If the bike or I had fallen down that hill we would have been done. There were 0 people or facilitates anywhere close to where the bike fell over. I felt really stupid.

I’ve gotten good at the offroad stuff but I can’t help but wince at each rock I hit. I feel like I’m always doing damage to poor Donkey and taking miles off the trip. At some point something will break. But until then I will keep trying to hit some of these awful roads as they offer the best views and best experiences. People always look up in awe, especially kids. They can’t help their expression as their jaw drops down into a, “who the f*ck is that?” face.

Once I hit the “main road”  it was only a tiny bit better. Large pieces of gravel kept my back tire swinging all over the place and the entire route was under heavy construction. But the guys holding the “para” and “siga” stop and go signs were all sleeping but one so I always shot by and would maneuver around the huge caterpillar machines. I felt like a tiny ant in a world of giants. As the giants tended to their road scraping away at the mountains and putting huge loads of dirt in their buckets I was shooting by trying to not get stepped on.

I finally got back to Esteli and took a moment to walk around. It’s not especially beautiful but it does have some character. It’s mostly just a long strip of little commercial shops. But I love the lack of tourists.

Border Crossing! Honduras to Nicaragua at Las Manos – 20220803

Border crossing day! Drove from Valle de Angeles straight through to Las Manos. Slightly nervous as always to cross the border.

So far an easy process. On the Honduras side I got stamped out of one window and handed them the Honduras document at another window. They wanted me to fill out an exit form so I did. Then I continued on and right past the border the Nicaraguans waved me over. They took documents into a little hut just to look at them I guess? Passport, license, registration, and title. They kept telling me my title had expired and I kept explaining that it hadn’t. What I was most nervous about was that the registration does expire in 5 days. I thought maybe they wouldn’t let me in with that little time left.

I then went to a little building where they checked my covid vaccine. They gave me a little slip of paper which I took to immigration right past the covid hut. They took the slip of paper, passport, and asked to see the form I filled out the week prior.

The cost was $13. Yes, they do not accept their own currency. Only US dollars. Then I had to go back to the little front hut. They then told me to drive down to “the tree” and “la niña” and so I drove down like 5 seconds until a lady waved me over. She pointed to some guy who then sprayed the bike real quick. I don’t have a clue what it does. But it was kind of funny watching him walk around fighting ghosts.

Then she wanted to look through my things. She found my gopro and could just not wrap her head around it. She must have asked me 100 questions about it. An official then came over who was clearly drunk and kept asking me about it. I just straight up ignored him until he went away. She asked if I had a drone and I said no. I would only find out later that drones are illegal in Nicaragua.

This lady was the biggest hardass I’ve ever had at a border. Thank God she didn’t find my drone.

She then told me to head back to aduana where I’m at now. They wanted license, title, and immigration form and passport

They gave me a form that lets me enter Nicaragua for 30 days. I then went on to the next roadblock. They wanted to see the receipt, registration and license. They then told me I needed insurance which would cost $12. There was also a guy there that sold me some stupid piece of paper that cost a dollar. Some tourist BS. Easily the most annoying border crossing so far. They again asked if I had a drone and I said no. Why is the insurance guy asking me? Feels scammy.

I finally got going and immediately noticed how different Nicaragua was from Honduras. Almost the whole road from the border to Esteli was flawless. I rode fast and comfortable. No stress of trying to dodge pothole after pothole.

I also noticed how much better people took care of their stuff and how sparse it was. Perhaps the population is much lower or they live more on the coast. I stopped to eat a very late lunch and the people were so nice and the food was so good. Some kind of chicken mixed with yucca and chicharrón with some kind of coleslaw mixed in.

I ended up staying at a place called Albergue something. It’s only 400($11) and I got a room with 3 beds. Super cozy and the wifi is actually pretty damn good. Tomorrow I will try to voyage deeper into the mountains.

Desayunos with Illegal Immigrants, Ride Towards Tegucigalpa, the Capital of Honduras – 20220730

I woke up at Hotel La Esparanza and went to breakfast across the street at the recommended comedor. I ordered one desayunos tipico and sat at a table after saying buen provecho to everyone in the comedor as per Latino procedure and custom. Everyone immediately forgave me for being a gringo.

I sat and started going through my Spanish flashcards when I saw some people I recognized from the hotel walk in and sit at the table next to me. A young girl and a guy. I asked them where they were from assuming they were headed to the US like the woman I had talked to the night before and they said they were from Venezuela as well.

They repeated to me same story as the girl from the night before told me. That Venezuela is awful right now and the journey was tough and asking me how much people make per hour in the US. We chatted a little bit and then I got up and paid for myself and them. It cost me a whopping $4 for their entire bill but I knew how much a small act like that can raise the morale of a weary traveler.

I then packed my things and drove off to Tegucigalpa, the capital. I’m mostly just stalling as I’m not supposed to enter Nicaragua before the 1st due to some weird-*ss paperwork thing that you need to fill out at least a week prior to entry.

It was a pretty drive of deciduous trees and got a little chilly for the first time in a long while. I’m renting an Airbnb for about $30 per night and tomorrow I hope to clean the bike, get some oil for the filter, and explore just a little bit.