Ferrry to Ometepe – 20220926

Woke up at Jordan and Carolina’s place and they had already left when I got up. Being with them gave me a lot of perspective of what it would be like living in Nicaragua as a foreigner. And to be honest it was a little depressing to me. I love the idea of settling down somewhere and just living off the land, but they had no money saved up and it permeated through everything. I just felt this tension of any little expense having the potential of putting them over the edge. I would want to have enough saved up to never have to think about it again before settling down in a foreign place.

I went to start the bike after packing and Donkey just wouldn’t start. I was thinking it was too much fuel but it felt like it was the spark because it didn’t seem to be catching anything at all.

So I tore it apart to get the spark plug off which wasn’t too fun. I couldn’t clean it properly so I have no doubt some residue fell into the engine. Hopefully it found its way out. But that seemed to fix it so I mounted Donkey and shot off.

I drove to San Jorge to take the ferry to Ometepe(technically Moyogalpa is where it drops you off). It cost me 20 córdobas($.55) for foreigner tax, 25($.70) for moto tax, and only 200 córdobas($5.50) to take the ferry across. Surprisingly incredibly cheap. I think it costs much more to take a car.

I got to “life is good” hostel and checked in. Interesting place run by a Slovakian couple with really good food. I walked in and the owner was speaking Hebrew with me. I though it was just awful Spanish but eventually we figured out that he just thought I was Israeli because he gets a lot of Israelis and I guess I look like one. So we switched to English.

I went downtown Moyogalpa to get money from the ATM as that is the only place on the island to get money out. I also got something to eat. Delicious shrimp garlic.

I walked by a place selling tours and they said that a guide for the Concepción hike was $20 per day for just me. I’m sure they are dying for tourists right now. It would be $15 if it was more than 1 person.

I went back to the hostel but couldn’t find anyone else interested in doing the hike with me so I decided I would probably just go at it alone.

There were some nice people at the hostel. Some German girls and guys and a Danish girl. We played some monopoly deal while Rikki the Danish girl endlessly scraped a old, dry coconut with an old bendy hostel spoon.

Tomorrow I’ll wake up early AM to hike Volcan Incepcion!

Night in Miraflor Homestay – 20220805

I woke up in Esteli, got coffee and some cash and packed up the moto. I was planning to head to a place in the mountains of Miraflor that I had found on iOverlander. It sounded pretty interesting and a perfect spot to check out some more of the nature of the area.

Ready to ride

The ride was gorgeous but as usual the roads became awful. I tried to go the way that google recommended only to turn back because it was too muddy. The area is clearly a “cloud forest” type place and you can see long beards hanging off of all the trees which are subsistent on the incredibly humid air. It gives it a nice “old creepy forest” vibe.

On the way my gasoline line popped off for some reason and I was unaware until the engine shut down. I felt the ever slightest shutter of the engine prior and knew something was up but chose to ignore it. When it shut down and I stopped and got the rich scent of gas in my nostrils and when I looked down at my boot it and the engine were soaked in gas. I jumped off and took a closer look. It looked like all that happened was the metal piece popped off and all I had to do was put it in. So I did and ran the engine a second and bam I continued on. The initial dread I felt at having to make a repair on the side of the road subsided into relief and then skepticism. It felt like it was too easy.

After trudging through and next to rivers of mud I finally made it to the homestay where the kid I had been messaging as through iOverlander was waving at me on the street. He said he could hear my moto from way off. I parked the bike in their house and the Mom Ana introduced herself to me and said her husband Carlos would be back soon. The 2 kids names were Carlos and Jose. Carlos is 20 and Jose is a couple years younger.

Don Carlos came back before long and him and his son immediately set off to try to help fix everything on my bike. Since the choke lever had just snapped off we tried to make a new one with some very minor success. I now have a washer superglued on there that can kind of turn the choke but also unscrews a bolt each time. Better than it was I guess.

I then sat down to eat with Don Carlos and he told me a little bit of his history. He is from El Salvador but fled from there to Nicaragua due to mafia related issues. He was a little vague about it but someone he knew had been killed and they were saying he was next so he left with his family. But he didn’t really like Nicaragua. He thinks the education in Nicaragua is awful and that all of his neighbors are communists and persecute you if you are not. There had been lots of issues in this area a few years ago but he told me that now it had mostly fizzled out. He says his neighbors don’t treat him the same as they are from El Salvador and they are not communists.

We then went on a hike around the area. Really gorgeous rainforest and he showed me all the places where people illegally came to cut trees down. He says the poor need to wait for permits while the rich take whatever they want. He needed to wait 3 months to wait to cut down a tree to build his house.

We then went back, ate dinner and I did some reading in the hammock. The house is very basic with a dirt floor, a toilet you have to pour water down to flush and a nice cold breeze as nothing is sealed. It’s nice to stay for 1 night but it would be rough to stay longer.

He then sat down with his kids and they were on a videocall with some preacher or something in Miami. It was pretty rough to listen to so I just tried to read through it. Then Carlos Jr came and talked to me for a bit and showed me his Encyclopedia. It seems he gets most of his education from reading it. He was really excited to ask me about the countries I had traveled to and showed me each of them in his encyclopedia as I talked about them and he would read me a couple of facts about each one as I talked about them. It was really cool to see him light up, clearly there is a traveler and adventurer inside him.

As is often the case in these tiny places everyone more or less went to bed when it got dark and I’m now going to go to sleep myself at a whopping 830pm. There’s nothing better than good sleep.

Guatemala City Maintenance Day, Back to Work- 20220705

Today was maintenance day before heading back to work for a trip. I woke up and headed to a nice coffee shop called coffee district where the barista was studying to be a pilot. He somehow guessed I was a pilot because of my Sinaloa hat and he said “my face looked like a pilot face.” It blew my mind. We talked about it for a bit. Then I tried to get some blog and work stuff done.

Delicious

I booked a flight to work and dropped the moto off at Christian’s house. Super nice dude. So far on this trip I have used Couchsurfing as a way to find people to leave the motorcycle with with great success. I have only met amazing people more than willing to house my motorcycle for sometimes an entire month.

In Guatemala City you can use uber to book motorcycle rides. I highly recommend it if you don’t value your life much. The dude rode like an absolute idiot. He went from full throttle to full brake the entire ride and hit a pothole harder than I’ve ever felt before. But it was fun.

Tomorrow I head back to work so the fun is over for now.