Tonina Ruins, More Rebel Roadbloacks, and a Large Step Towards Guatemala – 20220630

Today I woke up a little late after a rough time trying to sleep. I slurped down some delicious coffee from the place I am staying, Casita Tonina, and hopped on Donkey over to the ruins.

My new favorite ruins

I was literally the only one there. Since I was on a motorcycle I arrived before all of the parades of tourists. I also think no one was going due to the mafia blockade between San Cristobal and Tonina.

I was literally the only tourist there for the entire hour I walked up and down the steps. By far my favorite experience exploring ruins, way cooler than the way more expensive and touristy spots in Guatemala.

It started getting a little hot when I headed back and I started packing my things as the family as the Casita made me some huevos rancheros. The dinner was 120 pesos and breakfast 50. Both were amazing. I hopped on the moto around 11 and fired away certain I would have to deal with more roadblocks and BS today.

Man I got lucky. As I started riding and got about 45 minutes out I saw some big convoys of military trucks. I thought that was a good sign as the route was only 2.5 hours so I figured it was clear if they were heading through. But as I passed them and went around a curve I saw people with guns putting big logs again in the road. One dude was waving me over. I briefly pretended to go towards him and then I thought, “no f-ing way,” and gassed up and shot between the logs at full Donkey speed. I kept the gas in and after 10 minutes of riding Donkey hard started to ease up a bit.

I was pretty sure there would be a blockade ahead and I would be stuck between two blockades and shook with nervous excitement as the pavement whipped by. There were lots of signs saying it was a “rebel area” and I saw one other spot that was partially blocked off. I regret not stopping and taking a photo of the signs but the nervous excitement kept me a slave to the throttle.

When I drove through one of the villages there was a truck full of women with orange handkerchiefs in their hair and cars with loudspeakers that were going off at full volume. Immediately as I went by I heard the unmistakable sound of a gunshot. This was the first time in my life where I sat there and analyzed if something just hit me. I looked down at my body to see if anything was leaking red. I don’t know what was going on, but I saw all the locals peeking their heads out of their stores to fix their eyes on anything that might be happening in the street. I’m sure they are tired of this rebel BS. They seem to stand for nothing but anarchy.

I set my eyes forward and let Donkey scream at full volume as I shot through the little rebel villages.

I gassed all day and finally made it to Comitan where I took a much needed nap and my nap dreams of sugarplums quickly turned into a full night dream of sugarplums. Tomorrow I will cross the border to Guatemala!

Donkey always rearing to go

Exploring Palenque with Fellow Motorcyclist – 20220628

Riding through the jungle

For the second time on my trip I met someone else traveling by motorcycle. I found Jeanette on couchsurfing. She is doing a solo trip as well, and I have to say her trip seems much more impressive as she is a tiny lady from Singapore. She told me she already dropped her bike 5 times and is at the mercy of the Latinos around her 100% of the time as she is incapable of working on her own bike, much less even picking it up if she drops it. Not exactly a great place to be. So for the third time in my life I actually rode with another motorcyclist.

We rode to Roberto Barrios which was quite nice. 40 minutes and 30 pesos later we arrived. You could spend all day exploring the various waterfall pools scattered throughout the area.

We also ate there where I had some of the best tortillas I’ve ever tasted. How is there so much variety in flavor from something as simple as smashing corn into a circle? I don’t know. There were a lot of stray skinny dogs so we threw them our leftover meat.

Pointing at a spiky tree

The ride out was quite nice and quite easy. All pavement with your usual amount of topes in Mexico. When we got back we went out to eat at the same place Jeanette had eaten snails the day before. We wanted to try some quesadilla thing that ended up being exceedingly awful. It was called Chapay.

Me moving Jeanette’s motorcycle as she refuses to drive on anything but concrete. She has no idea what’s coming for her in Guatemala and beyond

The next day we met at the market to try some Palenque market food. It was pretty meh to be honest. The plantains with cream were awful. Incredibly bitter.

Fooooooood. It was awful.

I took burro to a motorcycle shop to get a tire changed and it was only 1700 pesos to throw a new front tire on. I am so happy to have the new tire, it was getting pretty sketchy on the old one and i was going to try to make it to Guatemala city on it which would have probably been a supremely awful decision.

We are going our separate ways in the morning. Me driving south towards road closures, horrendous rain, and Guatemalan narcos and Jeanette going north towards the burnt gringo skin of Cancun.

Moving the bike

My trip thus far, although I have met multitudes of amazing people, has felt supremely lonely. The vast majority of the time I am riding totally alone, entirely unsure of what amazing or awful thing waits for me just past the next bend. And it requires mental maintenance 100% of the time to prune back the dark wet roots of loneliness that are always seeping into my moments of peaceful solitary bliss. I cannot help but think all the time about the quote by Chris McCandless. “Happiness is only real when shared.” And while I realize that I must go on alone, and that I would prefer to go on alone, I can’t help but let the absolute terror I have felt in various circumstances in Chiapas and Mexico as a whole boil up to my ears. And when I close my eyes I feel as if I am jumping into a tank of sharks with only people to stare at me from below through 1 way mirrors.

So tomorrow I continue as the words, “it is what it is,” constantly echo in my mind. As things break and tear and as beautiful flowers come out of nowhere to remind me of love long past. I sit on the bike doing whatever it takes to always inch forward wearing an apathetic smile, but sometimes a smile exploding with beauty and happiness, and sometimes tears rolling down my face. It somehow seems fitting that through it all, the kids that wave to me from the side of the road just see a guy in a shiny grey helmet moving by them for just a moment headed on the road south flashing the peace sign with his fingers.