Exploring the Pools of Semuc and Drive from Semuc Champay to El Estor – 20220717

What a day. I woke up in Semuc at 7am, chatted to my hostelmate from Iraq for a moment and then was about to head to Semuc Champay park when I realized I once again had some major intestinal issues. I sat on the toilet for ever and then finally around 830 headed up to the park. It’s a 2 minute walk from El Portal and costs 50 quetzales.

I wasn’t expecting too much as I am always very apprehensive about tourist-hyped areas but was pleasantly surprised when I walked upon the pools and started exploring around them. The natural formation of the pools was absolutely stunning. I immediately wished I had brough my goggles because there are big shelfs under the waterfalls that you can swim under and explore. I have no idea how far back they go.

After about an hour I did the hike up to the mirador. It took about an hour to get up there and was a tougher hike than I expected. There’s a couple stair areas that are a little sketchy and can really only go one person through at a time and there were a fair share of people that weren’t exactly in great shape always blocking the way. Overall I really loved the hike though. Really amazing jungle to hike through all around Semuc Champay.

I swam again on the way out and ended up at the hostel packing up my stuff at around 11am.

I kind of knew what was ahead but when I left it looked like it would be a nice clear day all day long. Bright and blue.

I took highway 5 which is almost definitely the wrong choice to take. It was a rouuuuugh ride to say the least. Made much rougher by the rain that lasted the last 2 hours of my riding.

But right before the rain started I stopped at a little tienda to get a couple snacks as I had not yet eaten and the whole family came to hang out with me. The road is clearly never traveled on by adventurers and they had a lot of questions for me. The mom could not even speak Spanish, just the local language so she kept asking her kid to translate for her. It was really an amazing moment and the whole ride was full of people waving and smiling at me. I wasn’t expecting that. I love the old traditional clothes that all the women wear here. They are so bright and colorful.

I finally made it to Hotel Ecologico Cabana del Lago and was pleasantly surprised by the place. The lake is rather pretty and the place has nice cabins with some really cool developments on the lake. Nice places to sit and chill. BUT an unbelievable amount of mosquitos everywhere.

Halfway from Guatemala City to Semuc Champay – 20220715

I got up in the morning, ate a pastry and packed my stuff. When I went to start driving I talked to the Airbnb owner a little bit and she was giving me advice about Semuc Champay. That I may need to pay to ride a 4×4 up to see it. When she saw my fanny pack with my money in it she said I should hide it because, “they will come up next to you and shoot you in the head and take the fanny pack.” I doubt that hiding the fanny pack would really help with that but I really wish she hadn’t told me that. I felt a super cautious the whole day when people rode by me after she said that.

Delicious breakfast

The first hour of riding was pretty rough as I tried to get out of the city. The organization of the roads is absolute trash. Just random roads going in random directions. And the signs to try to help you figure out which road goes to what are laughable. They literally look like someone slung spaghetti at the wall.

After about 3 hours I stopped at a place to get lunch and it seems as if I am eating the same meal over and over. Always a chicken leg, some beans, a bowl of something, rice, and tortillas. The tortillas here are really good though.

After about another 30 mins driving I arrived at Ranchitos de Quetzal. I wasn’t expecting much but was incredibly pleased with the place after checking in. The room is nice with hot water and they have a 1.5 mile hike that goes in a loop around the property with 2 really nice swimming spots with waterwalls. I really loved the hike.

Then I went into the town here to get some cash from the ATM. As is ALWAYS the case in Central America here was a line of 40 people to go into the bank. I have no idea what the hell the deal with that is. But I had to wait 5 mins to use the ATM and I’ve never in my life felt like such an alien before. All the people standing in line were staring at me. They might as well have been poking me. It makes me feel pretty uncomfortable sometimes. Then I ate at a place called Monte bello which was again the same meal but this time some type of local turkey leg.

An illusive quetzal feather

Tomorrow I hope to arrive in Semuc Champay. May the rain gods stay the eff away tomorrow. I know there will probably be some wet days ahead, but I hope it delays as long as possible.

Tonina Ruins, More Rebel Roadbloacks, and a Large Step Towards Guatemala – 20220630

Today I woke up a little late after a rough time trying to sleep. I slurped down some delicious coffee from the place I am staying, Casita Tonina, and hopped on Donkey over to the ruins.

My new favorite ruins

I was literally the only one there. Since I was on a motorcycle I arrived before all of the parades of tourists. I also think no one was going due to the mafia blockade between San Cristobal and Tonina.

I was literally the only tourist there for the entire hour I walked up and down the steps. By far my favorite experience exploring ruins, way cooler than the way more expensive and touristy spots in Guatemala.

It started getting a little hot when I headed back and I started packing my things as the family as the Casita made me some huevos rancheros. The dinner was 120 pesos and breakfast 50. Both were amazing. I hopped on the moto around 11 and fired away certain I would have to deal with more roadblocks and BS today.

Man I got lucky. As I started riding and got about 45 minutes out I saw some big convoys of military trucks. I thought that was a good sign as the route was only 2.5 hours so I figured it was clear if they were heading through. But as I passed them and went around a curve I saw people with guns putting big logs again in the road. One dude was waving me over. I briefly pretended to go towards him and then I thought, “no f-ing way,” and gassed up and shot between the logs at full Donkey speed. I kept the gas in and after 10 minutes of riding Donkey hard started to ease up a bit.

I was pretty sure there would be a blockade ahead and I would be stuck between two blockades and shook with nervous excitement as the pavement whipped by. There were lots of signs saying it was a “rebel area” and I saw one other spot that was partially blocked off. I regret not stopping and taking a photo of the signs but the nervous excitement kept me a slave to the throttle.

When I drove through one of the villages there was a truck full of women with orange handkerchiefs in their hair and cars with loudspeakers that were going off at full volume. Immediately as I went by I heard the unmistakable sound of a gunshot. This was the first time in my life where I sat there and analyzed if something just hit me. I looked down at my body to see if anything was leaking red. I don’t know what was going on, but I saw all the locals peeking their heads out of their stores to fix their eyes on anything that might be happening in the street. I’m sure they are tired of this rebel BS. They seem to stand for nothing but anarchy.

I set my eyes forward and let Donkey scream at full volume as I shot through the little rebel villages.

I gassed all day and finally made it to Comitan where I took a much needed nap and my nap dreams of sugarplums quickly turned into a full night dream of sugarplums. Tomorrow I will cross the border to Guatemala!

Donkey always rearing to go