Free Walking Tour Around Oaxaca and Lucha Libre! – 20220621

Today I woke up, ate breakfast at the hostel and then went on a free walking tour. The tour took us all around the city looking at the old cathedrals, churches, other old buildings, and the market.

Of all the places I went and would go in Mexico, Oaxaca would be by and far my favorite little old city. Unlike most of the cities in Mexico I can honestly say it is nice. The colors are brilliant, the streets clean, the weather a little bit cooler, and the people generally nicer and calmer.

Just one of the gorgeous buildings in Oaxaca

It’s important to note that absolutely every day of the year the people of Oaxaca gather somewhere in the city to have some kind of celebration. They will all tell you, “Oh Senor! You are so lucky to have arrived just in time for _____ celebration.” It is a lie and a sham. You are not lucky, there is one every day. I saw 2 enormous celebrations and lots of weddings that would parade down the streets during my time in Oaxaca. When do the people of Oaxaca work? Good question.

For some reason in Oaxacan weddings they parade creepy paper mache dolls of the bride and groom to be. Let me repeat it is incredibly creepy.
You lost yer shoe senorita

On the tour we also tried some of the foods and I saw this sign advertising a Lucha Libre advertisement that I immediately realized that the movie “Nacho Libre,” was actually based on fact(I would later rewatch Nacho Libre to realize the entire movie was actually shot in Oaxaca.) Upon seeing the ad I knew I had to go and see it for myself.

Lucha Libre!

So after the walking tour I messaged my friend Maria who had helped watch my motorcycle while I went to work for a month. I begged her to not make me go to something so chaotic alone and to my surprise she agreed to go. I figured it would be something pretty cheesy and awful to have to go to for someone who lived there.

I don’t know what I was expecting from the lucha libre, but whatever I was expecting, it was nothing like that. Upon arriving on the moto I was certain I had put the address in wrong because it was just a block of houses. But upon seeing a cart with a bunch of wrestling masks for sale I figured I actually was in the right spot. Maria showed up and we walked through a sketchy door, paid 200 pesos per person and walked straight into someone’s backyard strewn with trashy chairs and a big wrestling square in the middle.

So we walked in, sat down, ordered 2 coronas, and people watched as people started to file in and fill the seats.

Eventually an announcer started talking in Spanish and 2 old fat dudes just kind of rolled in and started fighting on the stage. The first few matches were awful. It was incredibly strange. Dudes with huge beer bellies just kind of half-assed smacking each other.

Pepe whipping some other dude

But as the night went on the fights got much more dramatic and the moves much more impressive. I actually really got into it and as the Mexican locals shouted, “DURO!, DURO!” I was yelling “DURO!” as well.

They seemed to have no problem flipping off the stage a clear 8 feet onto a group of other wrestlers.

In the last match of 7 or so fighters it was just nonstop chaos. We kept having to jump up out of the chairs as one of them would throw another across the chairs and then start smashing him with the chairs. Another fighter smashed an entire crate of glass bottles over another’s head, many of the bottles breaking.

Eventually they somehow decided that “El Zombie,” lost the match and as he was not a fighter wearing a mask he had to cut his hair. So they shaved his head in front of the crowd. It was a little lame of an ending, but people began to file out and I headed home for some much needed rest.

Maria and I posing with one of the stellar fighters

Motorcycle Ride from Puerto Escondido to Shroomtown – 20220427

After checking out one last little surfing beach in Puerto Escondido, taking one last barf at surfer culture, I got packed and started driving for Oaxaca. My plan was to get lunch in Mazunte, drive through Zipalote, and then spend the night in San Jose del Pacifico. And that’s just what I did. At Zipalote I began the long climb in to the mountains as I felt the heat of the sun begin to subside on my back.

Puero Escondido

As I rode into the mountains I felt my heart lift. I could feel the humidity increase on my face, the temperature chilled my hands and nose, and my eyes absorbed the vibrant colors of the jungle, plants, and waterfalls everywhere. My nose screamed with joy at the fresh mountain air.

I was so happy to be in these little mountain towns again. I checked into a cabana at Cabanas Rancho Viejo that cost me 1100 pesos and went into town and got some Thai food which wasn’t too good. San Jose Pacifico is littered with mushroom murals on almost every building. It is known for it’s magic mushrooms during rainy season. Word is that they feed it to kids sometimes.

The cabana ended up being one of the coziest places I’ve ever stayed. As it got quite cold at night they put a huge fireplace in the middle of the room stocked with a lot of firewood. I spent the whole night reading to the glow of the fire with the flames baking my face snuggled under a blanket.

From Guadalajara to Puerto Escondido and On! – 20220426

After recovering from my quinceƱera hangover I booked a flight back to Puerto Escondido. I flew over, took a taxi to my hotel, and went to grab a coffee and wait for Sam, who was watching my motorcycle, to wake up.

Everything in Puerto Escondido is made for foreigners who are there for surf lessons so at the coffee shop I ordered, “the big wave” and an espresso. I soaked in the surfer vibes and got high on caffeine.

Sam messaged me eventually and I went to pick up the motorcycle and I picked up a bunch of Coronas for him. We popped open a couple coronas after noticing they were the tiny ones. I put the bike back together and we chatted a bunch. He is a super interesting dude from Switzerland that I would hear about again down the line.

Sam the man

After leaving Sam’s place I stopped by a welder where I would buy a fat steel washer and the guy welded it on for 100 pesos. The BEST $5 I have ever spent in my entire life. I was having so many issues with the kickstand sinking in and the bike falling everywhere I put it. Now I can essentially I was a little worried the added weight would pull it down while riding but I have had 0 issues with that.

Puerto Escondido would mark the last city on the Coast I would be at for a long while. I had followed coastlines one way or another all the way down to Puerto Escondido. It was one of the big reasons I had started the motorcycle trip to begin with. A ridiculous amount of people had recommended it to me over the years and it had floated high on my list of places to go.

I had initially thought I would pretty much just drive down and live there for a few months, and then drive back. But my trip was slower than I had anticipated, there were too many other places I liked on the way, and the looming end of my 6 month permit pushed me to go further. I also just did not love Puerto Escondido as much as I thought I would. This trip has made me abundantly aware that I love tropical mountain rivers a lot more than beaches. I find beaches to be pretty good places to read and drink an espresso and I always find myself wondering what the hell people do after that.

So from Puerto Escondido I would set my compass inland to the world of monkeys, warm streams, and enormous shady trees.