Exploring the Pools of Semuc and Drive from Semuc Champay to El Estor – 20220717

What a day. I woke up in Semuc at 7am, chatted to my hostelmate from Iraq for a moment and then was about to head to Semuc Champay park when I realized I once again had some major intestinal issues. I sat on the toilet for ever and then finally around 830 headed up to the park. It’s a 2 minute walk from El Portal and costs 50 quetzales.

I wasn’t expecting too much as I am always very apprehensive about tourist-hyped areas but was pleasantly surprised when I walked upon the pools and started exploring around them. The natural formation of the pools was absolutely stunning. I immediately wished I had brough my goggles because there are big shelfs under the waterfalls that you can swim under and explore. I have no idea how far back they go.

After about an hour I did the hike up to the mirador. It took about an hour to get up there and was a tougher hike than I expected. There’s a couple stair areas that are a little sketchy and can really only go one person through at a time and there were a fair share of people that weren’t exactly in great shape always blocking the way. Overall I really loved the hike though. Really amazing jungle to hike through all around Semuc Champay.

I swam again on the way out and ended up at the hostel packing up my stuff at around 11am.

I kind of knew what was ahead but when I left it looked like it would be a nice clear day all day long. Bright and blue.

I took highway 5 which is almost definitely the wrong choice to take. It was a rouuuuugh ride to say the least. Made much rougher by the rain that lasted the last 2 hours of my riding.

But right before the rain started I stopped at a little tienda to get a couple snacks as I had not yet eaten and the whole family came to hang out with me. The road is clearly never traveled on by adventurers and they had a lot of questions for me. The mom could not even speak Spanish, just the local language so she kept asking her kid to translate for her. It was really an amazing moment and the whole ride was full of people waving and smiling at me. I wasn’t expecting that. I love the old traditional clothes that all the women wear here. They are so bright and colorful.

I finally made it to Hotel Ecologico Cabana del Lago and was pleasantly surprised by the place. The lake is rather pretty and the place has nice cabins with some really cool developments on the lake. Nice places to sit and chill. BUT an unbelievable amount of mosquitos everywhere.

Arrival In Semuc Champay, Cuevas de K’anba – 20220716

Woke up with a headache at Ranchitos de Quetzal but got up at 8 and started hitting the packing. I really think my best shot to not get soaking wet is to get up early and try to arrive at the next spot around noon. So I got going around 9am and started winding down jungle roads.

The route was pretty nice and easy. Not too much traffic and the roads were in much better shape than the rest of Guatemala. After about 2 hours I turned down the road to Semuc Champay. I stopped immediately at a restaurant to get some food and chugged a coffee to finally aleviate the headache a little bit. It was quite strong and as my body shook I asked the guy working there if I could drive up to Semuc on the motorcycle. He wasn’t really sure but I was pretty sure I could make it.

It’s sketchy and steep but totally doable

I started bombing up the hill and loved the ride. The really steep parts had just a little concrete poured and there were parts that were just fine and flat. Overall, I didn’t think it was too bad but I’m more nervous for the way down.

On the road

I arrived at el portal hostel, checked in and threw my stuff in the room. I then went on a little walk and walked up to the Semuc Champay Park. It costs 50 quetzales($7) and it was already 2pm and cloudy and rainy so I figured I would go early the next morning.

I walked down to the river and was approached by a guy for a cave tour. He said the price would be 70 quetzales($9) with tubing and his payment would just be tip. There was another nice couple there so we all went together. His name was Mauricio and it ended up being one of the coolest cave tours I’ve done in my life. They are called “Cuevas de K’anba.”

This was my face seeing the cave/nature around the cave

It took about 2 hours and we were swimming, scrambling, and climbing up ladders the whole way. This one was unique in that they give you a candle to take with you so the whole tour was pretty damn dark. No head lamps. There’s also a lot of swimming involved so it’s quite difficult to keep the candles lit.

After the cave tour we walked upriver to a pretty neat waterfall and the guide Maricio and me jumped in some tubes and went about 1km down the river.

Me and my new bud

After that tour I felt really refreshed and headed to get some food that Maricio and I had walked by. Clearly they were packing up but they fed me and then clearly were talking about me in their local dialect and laughing a lot. Sometimes I get a little tired of that, but I wiped the crumbs off my shirt, said thank you, and headed for some much needed rest.

Halfway from Guatemala City to Semuc Champay – 20220715

I got up in the morning, ate a pastry and packed my stuff. When I went to start driving I talked to the Airbnb owner a little bit and she was giving me advice about Semuc Champay. That I may need to pay to ride a 4×4 up to see it. When she saw my fanny pack with my money in it she said I should hide it because, “they will come up next to you and shoot you in the head and take the fanny pack.” I doubt that hiding the fanny pack would really help with that but I really wish she hadn’t told me that. I felt a super cautious the whole day when people rode by me after she said that.

Delicious breakfast

The first hour of riding was pretty rough as I tried to get out of the city. The organization of the roads is absolute trash. Just random roads going in random directions. And the signs to try to help you figure out which road goes to what are laughable. They literally look like someone slung spaghetti at the wall.

After about 3 hours I stopped at a place to get lunch and it seems as if I am eating the same meal over and over. Always a chicken leg, some beans, a bowl of something, rice, and tortillas. The tortillas here are really good though.

After about another 30 mins driving I arrived at Ranchitos de Quetzal. I wasn’t expecting much but was incredibly pleased with the place after checking in. The room is nice with hot water and they have a 1.5 mile hike that goes in a loop around the property with 2 really nice swimming spots with waterwalls. I really loved the hike.

Then I went into the town here to get some cash from the ATM. As is ALWAYS the case in Central America here was a line of 40 people to go into the bank. I have no idea what the hell the deal with that is. But I had to wait 5 mins to use the ATM and I’ve never in my life felt like such an alien before. All the people standing in line were staring at me. They might as well have been poking me. It makes me feel pretty uncomfortable sometimes. Then I ate at a place called Monte bello which was again the same meal but this time some type of local turkey leg.

An illusive quetzal feather

Tomorrow I hope to arrive in Semuc Champay. May the rain gods stay the eff away tomorrow. I know there will probably be some wet days ahead, but I hope it delays as long as possible.